Why is asparagus so expensive?

Asparagus season is one of those little signs that spring has arrived in New Zealand. After months of winter veges, those first fresh green spears are a very welcome sight.

But they also come with a price tag that can make you wonder: why is asparagus so expensive?

There are actually some pretty solid reasons.

It takes years before you get a proper crop

Asparagus is a perennial, which means the plants stay in the ground for twenty years or more, coming back year after year. But growers need to be patient at the beginning. It can take around three years from planting before an asparagus bed is ready for a full harvest.

That's three years of looking after the crop before it really starts earning its keep, so growers are making a pretty significant long-term investment well before we're buying those first bunches of asparagus.

Every spear is picked by hand

The thing that sets asparagus apart from many other vegetables is that every spear is picked by hand!

Asparagus grows incredibly quickly when the conditions are right, and during the season growers need to continually check their crops for spears that have reached the right size.

And because they don't all pop up at once, growers have to go back through the same rows again and again throughout the harvest.

That's a lot of walking, bending and picking!

The season is short

New Zealand asparagus has a relatively short season, generally running through spring and into early summer.

There's only a limited window for growers to harvest and sell their crop, and the weather can make a big difference to how much asparagus is available at any one time. Cool weather can slow growth considerably, while warmer spring days can suddenly have those spears shooting out of the ground.

That's one of the reasons you might notice asparagus prices moving up and down during the season.

What happens when harvesting stops?

Once the harvest is over, growers stop cutting the spears and let them grow. The spears grow into tall, feathery green foliage known as fern, which can reach around two metres high.

The fern has an important job. It uses sunlight to feed the plant and replenish the underground crown and roots, storing energy for next year’s crop. Eventually it turns yellow and dies back before the whole cycle starts again the following spring.

There's quite a bit of work after it's picked, too

The work doesn't stop once the asparagus leaves the field. Those freshly cut spears need to be sorted, graded, trimmed, packed and kept cool so they arrive fresh and crisp. Asparagus is also fairly perishable, so it needs to move quickly from grower to customer.

So, is it worth it?

We reckon NZ asparagus is one of those vegetables that's worth enjoying while it's here.

And you don't need to do much to it. Toss it with a little olive oil, salt and pepper and roast it, throw it on the BBQ, add it to pasta or risotto, or simply steam it and serve with butter and a squeeze of lemon.

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One little tip (no pun intended!): don't automatically snap off a huge chunk of the bottom of each spear. If the ends are only slightly woody, a small trim or a quick peel of the lower stalk means you'll get more asparagus on your plate and less in the compost.

NZ asparagus season doesn't hang around for long, so enjoy it while you can.

And next time you look at the price and think “how much?!”, spare a thought for the person who's been walking up and down those rows, cutting every single spear by hand.

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Joanne Webb runs Eatlocal.nz, delivering premium, locally sourced fruit, veges, and artisan foods across the South Island. Passionate about supporting New Zealand growers, she personally packs every order to ensure quality and freshness. When she's not working on Eatlocal, you’ll find her walking her mini Schnauzer, Zac, or contemplating marathon training - again!